Two Weeks in Japan

Reflections and highlights from my trip

This trip marked my third visit to Japan. I’ve seen a considerable amount of the country and still feel like I’ve barely scratched the surface. There’s something about Japan that makes me feel hyper-excited and also profoundly at peace. Many have said it more eloquently, but I’ve never been to a place that enmeshes the past and present so seamlessly. It is where history and tradition meet innovation and futurity.

Read on for reflections, highlights, and recommendations from two weeks in Japan! (P.S. This post is very long, you may have to click to expand your email to read the whole thing or read it in the Substack app!)

Tokyo

I like to think that I’m someone who can quiet the noise of recommendations, tourist traps, and general ‘buzz’ about a place to plan relaxing vacation days, but all of that goes out the window in Tokyo. I have spent a total of 17 full days in Tokyo on three different trips and all of them have been spent in complete joy and chaos trying to see and do everything possible. Below are my favorite places in Tokyo, centered around the coffee shops that were a high priority for us on this trip!

Glitch Coffee is a beautiful coffee shop specializing in espresso where jazz plays from an old-fashioned speaker sitting on a bookshelf above the bar and you can uncover dozens of glass jars to smell the beans they have available. The tiny living room decorated with antiques next to the bar is the coziest place to sit and enjoy your coffee. Following Glitch Coffee, head to Ginza for lunch at Ginza Bairain (get the tonkatsu sandwich!) and then spend the afternoon browsing the beautiful stationary stores in the area.

About Life in Shibuya is the prime location to stop in between shopping and eating, with a green subway-tiled garden and indoor-outdoor concept. Order a drip coffee and an espresso alongside a snack and take your time people-watching. Head to Freaks, Pilgrim Surf & Supply, and Beams to shop after coffee, and then make your way to Ichiran for ramen. End your afternoon with taiyaki from Naruto Taiyaki Honpo.

Nestled in a quaint neighborhood next to Yoyogi Park is Fuglen, a retro-styled café that has the best energy. Enjoy a slow coffee and breakfast and then walk down the street to Pivoine, my all-time favorite store in Tokyo. From there, visit Teamlab Borderless. Words cannot describe how spectacular this exhibit is. Photos and videos don’t do it justice. It’s like entering a whole new world.

If you have kids, I highly recommend visiting Tokyo Disney Sea. With rides themed around The Little Mermaid, Rapunzel, Frozen, Toy Story, and Aladdin, it is more unique than Tokyo Disneyland and super fun. Arrive at the park at least thirty minutes before they open so you can get your fast passes which will save you so much time on the more popular rides.

Get up early to have breakfast at the Tsukiji Fish Market and then hustle to Koffee Mameya before they open to avoid the long line that forms there daily. With only a few people invited into this tiny, minimalist shop at a time, the coffee experience is unmatched. After coffee, pop over to Harajuku Gyozaro for the best gyoza of your life.

Hakone

Nestled in the mountains with beautiful lakes and views of Mount Fuji, Hakone is one of my favorite places. We planned almost the same itinerary as our last trip, which was as perfect as I remembered it. Make sure to purchase the Hakone Freepass which gives you free access to the Tozan Railway, Tozan Cable Car, Hakone Ropeway, and Hakone Sightseeing Cruise.

Visit Coffee Camp for food and coffee right when you arrive (get the pistachio ice cream!) before settling into your hotel. Stay at Modoka no Mori to end your day in a private open-air bath filled with hot spring water from Gora No Yu, the spring highest to the peak. The nine-course traditional dinner served in our room each night was easily the highlight of our trip.

In the morning, take the ropeway up the mountain to marvel at the views of Mount Fuji and the active volcano below you. You can then take the ropeway down to the sightseeing cruise where you can get off on the second stop across the lake. Stop at Bakery and Table for pastries and coffee to-go and then find a spot to sit along the lake and enjoy the view. From there, head to the Open-Air Museum and spend the rest of the afternoon wandering the spectacular sculpture gardens and exhibits nestled into the mountainous scenery.

Itō

The Izu Peninsula has been on my list for years and I’m so glad we made it happen on this trip. The contrast between the pine trees and the crystal blue ocean water along the coastline, the way the light flows through the trees in the mountain woods, and the powerful rivers and waterfalls thundering through mountain towns were all breathtaking.

Start your day with pastries from 201 Bakery and then take your time hiking along the coast from Jogasaki to Kaigan. Enjoy a coffee from Shirokuma and then head to Izu-Tobu, where you can ride a ski lift to the top of the volcano and walk its perimeter. The views of the mountains and the ocean were stunning. End your day with omakase from Hifumi Sushi.

Jump in the car to head to Joren Falls. Pick up a coffee from Itoku Coffee and enjoy the scenic drive to Wasabi Omiya. Get lost wandering the Wasabi farm and marveling at the beautiful river that flows through the town. Head to this spot to peruse the beautiful wooden furniture and home goods and grab lunch at their café.

Nikko

Known as a popular destination for Japanese locals to experience the Fall foliage, we were eager to visit a place less frequented by international tourists. Rent a car when you arrive so you can get up early to take the scenic drive to Ryuzu Cascades and Lake Chūzenji. (Tour buses start around 9 am and the winding drive becomes backed up for hours!) Take your time driving back and look out for observation decks where you can see views of Mt. Hangetsu. Head back to Nikko to visit the Tōshogū shrine right when it opens to avoid crowds. You’ll want to spend hours staring at the intricately designed shrines, the solid gold details, and the hidden spiritual elements. Walk over to Meguri Coffee from the shrine (be sure to stop at the picturesque Shinkyō bridge!), and order a crêpe with your coffee. Make a reservation for dinner at Komekichi Kouzushi.

The next day, get a 3d latte art coffee from Kashiwa Café before hopping on the steam train to the Tobu World Square where you can marvel at 1:25 scale models of famous global landmarks.

There’s so much to see in Japan, I hope this list of personal favorites inspires you to plan a trip. Thanks for reading!